Monday, September 26, 2011

High-End Retailers Offering More Discounts, merely Discreetly - NYTimes.com

Tiffany behaved customer research that shows its shoppers would be unwilling to discern the chain, founded in 1837, offering 20-percent-off magnetism bracelets and pearl earrings.

Even so, Tiffany has lowered prices on diamond engagement rings about 10 percent, hoping to refine a lifelong relationship between the prospective groom and the Tiffany mark.

Such cautious sales preserve a brand’s veneer of exclusivity and help build a sense of urgency by limiting the time customers have to score a deal. Additionally, secret sales empower stores to discount their merchandise profoundly without angering regular customers who may have bought at full price — the opposite of what happened last Christmas, when alarmed department stores began selling in-season couture at fire-sale prices. The eye-popping discounts led many consumers to answer whether always that chic merchandise was value the tall prices in the first place.

Neiman Marcus declined to discuss the “midday dash” extensively because competitive reasons and for it namely still testing the promotion. But the retailer said that at present it is pleased with the results.

The accustomed wisdom is that the extra purchasers who know about a sale, the better for commerce. But that rule does no necessarily prop in elegance retailing.

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“We say, ‘Here’s the product and here’s the price, and the price is justified,’ ” Mr. Aaron said.

“It gives them plausible deniability,” Ms. Martin said. “I think that is a much better reach in luxury than what occurred over Christmas.”

Mr. Stuart is among the many consumers in this economy to acquire the benefits of secret sales — whispered discounts and discreet price negotiations between customers and sales staff in the aisles of upscale chains. A time-worn tactics typically reserved for a store’s best customers, it has convert more democratized as the recession drags on and retailers skirmish to turn browsers into consumers.

More and more, the movement is on the Internet. “Not so long antecedent, many of the luxury brands saw it as a mass conveyance,” said Gregory Furman, founder and chairman of the Luxury Marketing Council, an industry group. Now it is not unusual for retailers to send e-mail messages like the one Bloomingdale’s sent in April to its subscribers: “Today only! Take $500 off your regular-priced online buy of $1,500 alternatively more in Mens.”

Scott Stuart was at the Bloomingdale’s cache in Manhattan when a salesman sidled up to him, said a private sale was beneath way and attempted him a deduct on the slacks he was inspecting.

Customers who subscribe to e-mail messages from Neiman Marcus, for example, are regularly invited to “midday dash” sales. The two-hour, online-only sales agree 50 percent off luxury goods that can be bought merely by clicking on a interlock in the e-mail message. Customers learn about the sale mere hours before it begins. This week’s “dash” featured a $697 Burberry handbag, apparent down from $1,395. A Carmen Marc Valvo chiffon robe was $575, down from $1,150. And Cole Haan flats were $82, down from $165.

Another avail of secret sales is that they require little or not advertising, so stores can privately slit deals with customers and publicly retain that they do not discount their brands.

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Of way, many luxury retailers have long offered discreet discounts to their top customers. Sales associates at luxe department stores were typically empowered to give discounts of about 10 percent to customers spending upward of a certain quantity of money, routinely $20,000 or $25,000.

At Tiffany & Company, executives contend that sale signs would impact with the jeweler’s reputation for timeless quality, symbolized by its signature blue boxes. “We naturally don’t engage in price promotion,” Mark L. Aaron, the company’s vice chancellor for investor relations, said in an interview.

“If you were a regular luxury shopper, you felt like a sucker,Replica Iwc Vintage Collection Limited Edition Portofino Hand-wound Mens Watch,” said Karla Martin, a co-leader of the North American retailing train at Booz & Company, a management consulting tight. “If you fair spent $800 on a Marni skirt and you sprint into celebrity who spent $400, you don’t feel remedied well as a customer. That was a misadventure for retailers.”

Yet when covert sales are a subtler direction to migrate goods, numerous industry professionals say they think today’s civilization of nonstop sales, mystery and not, is further hurting the luxury business.

“In dissimilar mart, I would have found it very inappropriate” to ask for a discount, said Mr. Stuart, a bankruptcy lawyer who works in New York and Chicago. “In this market, I’m finding it incredibly fitting.”

Rather than post big marketing signs, which tin ruin a store’s fame, high-end fetters are attempting apt unpack $3,000 handbags and $800 shoes by sometimes differentiating purchasers that certain items are ashore marketing, even if the amount tags mention otherwise. The stores likewise engage in the electronic equivalent of mumbling in a customer’s ear: bringing choose customers e-mail alerts approximately private online sales.

Rather than put up percent-off signs, Neiman Marcus uses e-mail and its Web site to proclaim deep, merely summarize, discounts.

“It’s heroin,” said Paco Underhill, the founder of “Why We Buy: The Science of Shopping” and the founder of Envirosell, the retail research and consulting firm. “The more you do it and the more ways you do it, the harder it is to stop.”

That was final autumn, and in the months since, he has been immersed with alike discount offers. If a salesman does not make one, he has academic to query.

In this economy, however, the discounts are “more in-your-face,” said Stacey Widlitz, a retailing critic with Pali Research. Moreover, they are steeper than in the past and available to customers costing far fewer than $25,000.

“When you’re selling everything in luxury,” said David A. Schick, a managing mentor and retailing analyst with Stifel Nicolaus, “you’re selling exclusivity.”

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